Note: I put this list of recommendations together for a friend several years back and have shared it and edited the list several times since. I thought I’d share it here for anybody interested. See this post for a slightly different conversation about why we keep going back to Portugal.
Porto
Porto is amazing. And hilly. Like, vacation leg-day hilly. 😅 It’s typically cooler and a bit damper than Lisbon, and it’s one of those cities where wandering without a plan is basically the plan. So, comfortable shoes with decent tread is essential. I’ve been most comfortable wearing low-top, waterproof hiking shoes in Porto. One of the nice things about Porto is that it doesn’t feel pretentious like some other European cities, so you won’t feel terribly out of place with good walking shoes during the day.
The north side of the Douro River is Porto proper. The south side—where all the famous port houses live—is Vila Nova de Gaia. We’ve usually stayed on the Porto side, specifically the old town (Ribeira), because we love the food, small shops, and overall atmosphere of the quaint little stops hidden in narrow, winding streets. That said, on our last trip we switched it up and stayed in one of the historic port houses on the south side… which led to a very enthusiastic port-tasting agenda. Highly recommend both the Sandeman Hostel (with a private room) and the port tasting.
Across 5–6 trips, we’ve concluded that Porto is beautiful (as the pictures suggest), the food is great, and there’s more than enough to do just by walking around and exploring. We once walked along the river all the way out to the beach (Foz do Douro — it’s a hike) and rewarded ourselves with lunch, a beer, and by taking the streetcar back. Another time, we rented scooters and rode up the Douro Valley toward Vazea do Douro. We also have travelled by scooter south along the coast to Praia da Granja. Both were fantastic day adventures.
Future trip ideas include: Braga to the North and Amarante to the East.
A quick Harry Potter fun fact:
A lot of Harry Potter was inspired by Porto. J.K. Rowling lived here when she first started envisioning the books. The city’s dramatic staircases, towers, fountains, university student robes, and even a certain café all fed into the imagery that eventually showed up in the series. Once you know this, you’ll start feeling Hogwarts vibes everywhere.
Favorite Spots (aka, places we keep going back to)
Breakfast – Hungry Biker
This is a must-do. Get there early, especially at the downtown location. There’s also a second Hungry Biker location that’s a bit larger and nicer (especially if you snag a spot in the back). We slightly prefer the second one, but honestly, you can’t go wrong.
Awesome Beer Garden (google maps link)
A little off the beaten path, but still an easy walk. This is a great place to slow down for a sunny afternoon with a book and a beer and pretend you live here now.
Dinner (our favorite spot in Porto) (google maps link)
Just go. It’s small, the staff is awesome, and the outdoor seating is perfect on a nice evening for people-watching. Whatever you do, do not miss the seafood black pasta!
Public Gardens (google maps link)
These free gardens are perfect for a picnic and especially beautiful in May. Bonus points for the elevated views looking up the Douro River as it winds through town.
Picnic Fixins = Awesome Sandwhiches! (google maps link)
A tiny sandwich shop that’s not really meant for eating in. Grab sandwiches to go and enjoy them in the gardens or back on your balcony or courtyard. Fantastic every time.
The House of Sandeman Hostel (google maps link)
If you can get a private room, this place is a gem. It’s basically a hotel room with a great vibe, built into the old Sandeman Port House offices. Easy access to the waterfront and port houses, free breakfast, low-cost group dinners, and a genuinely great staff. On our last trip, they even packed us breakfast and left it waiting at the front desk for a very early departure.
Airbnb (Downtown, pedestrian-only street) (google maps link)
We’ve had some great Airbnbs in Porto, but this one might take the cake for location. Even though it’s right in the middle of everything, it was surprisingly quiet and had a lovely private courtyard that was perfect for dinners in.
We’ve never had a car in mainland Portugal. It’s been all walking, Uber, and public transit. And yes—Ubers are WAY cheaper than in the States.
Lunch up the Douro (google maps link)
We randomly found this place while riding scooters up the river. Right on the water, perfect on a nice day, and one of those happy travel accidents you remember.
Sweet Things & Chocolate (google maps link)
There are great bakeries everywhere, but this one is worth a stop. The richest hot chocolate imaginable. Later in the afternoon, switch it up for port and a truffle (or four) and settle in.
Pastéis de Nata Stop (google maps link)
The Portuguese dessert classic, done exactly right, preferably with an espresso.
Indoor Market (Gaia side) (google maps link)
If you’re hopping between port tastings and need a snack or a drink, this little indoor market was perfect.
McDonald’s (yes, really) (google maps link)
We’re not fast-food people, but this McDonald’s is built into a beautiful historic café—and they serve beer. It’s probably the prettiest fast food restaurant I’ve walked into.
Late night arrival in Porto? A beer with your cheeseburger and fries before turning in? It works.
Porto: The Touristy Stuff (worth it, with caveats)
Porto is full of churches and cathedrals, but if you’re going to go inside one, the Church of Saint Francis near the waterfront (google maps link) is a good pick—it’s impressive and has catacombs underneath.
Livraria Lello (google maps link) is a beautiful bookstore, and fortunately we had an easy time getting in on our first trip. It’s grown in popularity and well known for it’s incredible staircase (which reportedly influenced J.K. Rowling when writing the Harry Potter series) and these days it can be a bit of a madhouse with timed entry and long lines. If you’re going to do it, go early.
Clérigos Tower (google maps link) dominates the skyline and is worth climbing if the line isn’t wild. I’ve done it twice and really loved it—especially in the evening, when the views stretch all the way to the coast. My daughter (9 when we last took the kids) really loved the climb up the winding, stone stairs that gets tighter the farther up the tower you climb.
Majestic Café (google maps link) is undeniably beautiful. It’s also overpriced, and the food and coffee aren’t anything special. You’re paying for the architecture and the J.K. Rowling connection. Worth sticking your head inside… then moving on.
The Waterfront (both sides of the river and the famous bridge connecting both) (google maps link) is very touristy, it’s loud with club vibes (specifically the Gaia waterfront) on weekend nights, and we’ve never been blown away by the food. That said, grabbing a drink by the water (the views on either side are beautiful – especially at sunset) doing a port tasting (Gaia), or checking out the food market and having a bite on the water (Gaia – see above) is still a great way to spend an afternoon/evening.
Lisbon
Lisbon is also hilly—no easing into it here. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, but when you’re just walking from your last espresso, to your next beer, before your next meal, it somehow doesn’t feel like exercise.
We’ve stayed in Alfama both times, and we’d happily do it again. It’s an old, walkable neighborhood with winding streets, hidden restaurants, and some truly great views. Lisbon is typically warmer and drier than Porto, and outdoor dining is everywhere.
Lisbon: Favorite Spots
There’s a dinner spot (Pub) (google maps link) among the winding streets of Alfama that might be one of our favorites anywhere. It’s small, hidden away, reasonably priced, and full of character. If you spend the evening sitting at a street table, eating good food and sipping your favorite drink, you’re doing Lisbon right – and you can buy a vinyl record on your way out. Stay until closing and make a good impression, the owner (who is also the bartender, waiter, and proud wearer of many amazing Dolly Parton shirts) might invite you inside for a couple of mystery shots before you depart.
We also loved a little brick-oven pizza place (google maps link) near one of our Airbnbs—great pizza, wine, staff, and prices—and a chocolate café (google maps link) where the cake was so dense and rich it bordered on absurd. Espresso is mandatory here.
Brunch lovers: there’s a great cafe (google maps link) that nails both food and vibe and is worth building a morning around.
For sunset, head towards this viewpoint (google maps link) with cafés nearby. The drinks are fine, but the views are the real reason to be there. Go a little early, grab a seat, and don’t rush it.
Lisbon: The Touristy Things
Time Out Market (google maps link) is fun for trying lots of different foods and doing a little shopping. It can get busy, so going outside peak meal times helps.
The palace at Sintra (google maps link) is absolutely worth a visit. We took an Uber there and the train back. The outside of the palace is stunning, with views in every direction. Walking through the interior, though? Pretty underwhelming, especially given the slow-moving, one-direction line with a ton of people that is the self guided tour. The real win is the palace grounds below the palace and courtyard. We spent the afternoon wandering the gardens and eventually walked all the way down into town, ending at a café (google maps link) in a very pretty part of Sintra. Long hike (and I think we probably got lucky finding the trail all the way back down the hill) with some adventure and a great payoff.
One note: I would not plan to walk up from Sintra town to the palace. We tried after reading some misleading blogs and quickly regretted it. Take an Uber or a tuk-tuk (like we ended up doing) straight to the palace gates.
Back in Lisbon, the castle (google maps link) is a hike (like every destination in Porto and Lisbon, it seems), but both it and the surrounding neighborhood are worth exploring.
The old waterfront and Arco da Rua Augusta area (google maps link) is beautiful with it’s white and black tiled sidewalks and squares. It’s great for strolling, sweet things, shopping (at least for more standard retail shops), and people-watching. We have skipped eating here – we typically avoid the tourist restaurants with menus on huge a-frame displays or staff rushing to direct you to a table while holding a huge laminated menu – but the area itself is worth your time—including near the Santa Justa Lift (google maps link) and the large open square nearby.
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Wrap
That’s all for now! I hope it helps you plan or inspires your next trip!